ORAL HISTORY: an INTERVIEW with ABIAH ALLEN
Granddaughter of Mr. Biggs, the builder and original owner of the Island Villa

 

Abiah is providing a walking tour through the place for interviewer Mary Sullivan.

IV6.JPG (287413 bytes)Abiah: We’ll start here in the kitchen on the north end. There used to be a big walk-in cooler here that was kept cold by ice underneath. They cut the ice from the lake and put it in here, and that’s what kept the cooler cool. They did it every winter. They’d cut the ice from out of the bay just down below here. There was an ice house here, and another ice house as you came up the drive. That later was made into a cottage of some kind. There is still a walk-in cooler, but, of course, it is now all electric. There used to be a big pantry here for the pastry cook. This end used to be the help’s dining room. When my mom was here — my parents were married in 1926 — they had a chef. He was not a cook, he was a chef, and you didn’t mess with him as my mother used to say. She’d look over the menu with him every day, and then you’d let him have his way. You didn’t mess with his refrigerator or cooler. You just didn’t bother him. You had to let him do his own thing.

Mary: Do you remember his name?

Abiah: No. I didn’t really know him that well, but my mom was scared to death of him, and the only time she went near him was to check the menu each day so she could type it up to let the guests know what was on it.

[We leave the kitchen area, and walk further down and Abiah points to a small room on the left near the front entrance way]

Abiah: This used to be a writing room, where people could sit and write. There also was a phone in here that people could use to call, if they wanted to. And across the hall this was the billiard room when I was young. Both of these rooms were open. Apparently when it was originally built, this was the downstairs bedroom for anyone who wasn’t able to make it upstairs.

Mary: When was it turned into a billiard room?

Abiah: My Dad did that at some point. Some of the guests wanted one.

This is the main lobby, and there used to be a big old desk over there. The front of this used to be a display case where you could display things that people might want to buy. The fireplace was right where it still is. When I was a kid, there was an owl that stood on the mantel. He kind of worried me because no matter where in the room I looked at him, he was looking at me. Of course, he was stuffed. The wainscoting is original. There used to be a lot of wicker furniture in here (the lobby area), including a big sofa in front of that window, and some chairs on each side. And that was the gentlemen’s bathroom right there under the stairs. The ladies room was in here (at the south end of the building). There are sliding doors here, so you could close this room off. And then you’ve got this 15-foot veranda out here. You look right out on Savage Island. Down at that end (the opposite end) when I was a child the porch used to be screened in from ceiling to floor. There was a ping pong table. It was something for the people to do on a rainy day. The boat house is down here. It’s east of the main villa. It had a hard wood floor, and they had a shuffle board on the floor. So there were many things to do. This was a tennis court out here (facing out to the left of the front entrance way).

Mary: Was it a grass tennis court?iv3.jpg (177665 bytes)

 Abiah: I guess it was a grass tennis court at one time. Croquet was up here. Then the ladies had all kinds of bridge games and contests here on the veranda on a rainy day.

[We’re up on the first floor of bedrooms.]

Abiah: These two south rooms used to be really nice rooms. They have such big windows. The nice thing about the Villa is they said you could always see the lake no matter what room you were in. You had a view of the lake. It’s true. This has the sliding doors as well. I’ve gotten different answers, but I always heard there were 48 bedrooms in the hotel. There was a laundry shoot here in the hall. It used to fascinate me. Down in the cellar there were these big canvas bags that were hooked to a framework that was on little wheels. The chamber maids would pull the sheets and the pillow cases and towels and throw them down the laundry shoot, and they’d land in the basket. There was a cat that lived in the cellar. And I brought him up stairs and dropped him down the laundry shoot, and he landed in the basket. He wasn’t too fond of that. There was a screen door down there, and he was able to make his escape when somebody came in. I caught him and brought him back upstairs and did it a second time. Somehow I could feel someone standing behind me, and it was my Dad. He told me he wasn’t too fond of the idea of my putting the cat down the laundry shoot. He told me to go downstairs and get the cat and put him outside and leave him there. Of course, when I got down, he had already made his escape.

One of the things that I’ve always been told is that the Villa always had electricity and always had running water. Across the driveway there were two motors. One was used to pump the water up from the lake and another to pump it into a big tower that sat up off the ground quite a ways, and then it gravity fed into the Villa. At 10 p.m. the lights went out. People had oil lamps in their rooms and people could light that if they wanted to stay up later. The toilets always had big tanks up above, and when you wanted to flush you pulled this big chain. It was a little different from anything I had seen. Those are all gone.

Mary: Was your grandfather a builder in the area?

Abiah: No, he wasn’t. My grandfather was Frank Briggs, and he came from Burlington. His father was Dr. George Briggs. Apparently, he got involved in hotel management. He went to school for this in Burlington. Now, I don’t know if the school was part of the old Hotel Vermont or not. At the time, he was courting a lady out here on Grand Isle, by the name of Mattie Adams. He discovered this piece of land and found out it was for sale, and decided he wanted to build a hotel. He had two younger brothers, one named George and one named Clark. Clark was a lawyer in Burlington. He had polio when he was a young boy and never had the use of his legs. They all went in together on this hotel thing. Clark drew up the plans. And George was going to help Frank run the place. Well, he soon was bought out by Frank. He then took off and went west. No one seems to know a whole lot about him. My grandfather and grandmother (Mattie Adams) were married in a nearby church and the reception was held at the Villa in 1902. It didn’t open for business until 1903. They had two boys. My father was the older, Malcolm Briggs, and he had a brother Edwin. Edwin died when he was about 16. I don’t know from what. My grandfather died first, and when my grandmother died in 1925, my father ended up with the hotel. My parents had grown up together — my mother had grown up at the four corners up in the village — and they had always known each other.

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She had always come down here for birthday parties and to go skating on the lake. My mom was a junior in college at UVM when my grandmother died. My father was not terribly excited about the prospects of running the hotel. He was not a hotel man, even though he had grown up with it. So he convinced my mom to leave college and marry so they could run the place. She had to take a lot of quick courses on how to manage the hotel. She had a lady who was a great help to her, and as mother said, she was always very busy. She was checking the menu to see what was planned for the day, and checking on the chamber maids. You had to find good people to do that work, because they were dealing with people’s personal property. You had the flowers to put around on the tables. There was a man who was the vegetable gardener, and he planted the garden so there were fresh vegetables all summer. There was a farm across the road that my father owned — it’s all gone now — where they raised hens. The fresh eggs came from there and the fresh milk and cream. They had a man here who took the guests out fishing. There were some guests who wanted the fishing guide as soon as they jumped out of the car, they wanted to go right away. My dad was a great sportsman. He loved fishing, he loved hunting.

Mary: Who were the guests for the most part?

Abiah: They had a lot of people who came from Philadelphia, Boston, New York City. What made this hotel so popular was that the Rutland Railroad came into being here on the island at the same time. So people would come up from the city, and they’d deposit their kids at Grand Isle Boys Camp, which was in South Hero, or some other camp, and they’d come to the Villa and stay for a month, and they’d pick up the kids on the way back, and get back on the train and head home.

Mary: These must have been the more wealthy people?

Abiah: Oh yes, they were. There was a CEO of a tobacco company, not that I’m crazy about tobacco, but I’m sure there was money there. There were a lot of people with money, who weren’t afraid to spend it. The rates were a little different and the money might have gone a little further.

My folks separated shortly after I was born, but I spent a lot of time here in the Villa with my Dad. I have two older brothers Frank and George, and we’d spend a lot of time around here during the day. At the end of the day I’d go home. My mom lived close by. So it was not a big deal. We were back and forth whenever we pleased. Frank is still alive, but George died in 1988. I have a younger half brother who is out in Chicago. My mother always said that I was more like my Dad, because I loved to hunt and fish, and just be outdoors. I was always considered more of a tomboy than a lady. My mother would always say, “We’ll never make a lady out of you, not till you’re 80.”

I’ve always loved the hotel. I was sad to see it just sit here, since 1993.

Mary: How did the property change hands?

Abiah: My Dad sold it to the Sisters of Mercy in 1956 or ‘57.

Mary: Why did he sell it?

Abiah: Mostly because there wasn’t much call for a hotel like this any longer. People were getting into the camper-trailers, and getting out on the road, more back to nature. And I would say from the late ‘40s on, it was not used much for a guest hotel. The sisters opened it in ‘58 for a camp and that was used right up until ‘93. I was very afraid that something would happen to it, because it is made out of wood, and that it would be lost. I would hate to see a building like this go. The Preservation Trust has done so much to put it back to the way it was. They’ve put new shingles on the third level. They’ve put the widow’s walk back. There used to be a flag pole up there. I don’t know if they intend to put a flag pole back up there or not. They’ve put the rail back around the widow’s walk.

Mary: Let’s get back to when you were a child. You talked about the chef and the wealthy people who came. What was a traditional meal like?

Abiah: I have this ad that was in the newspaper in 1904. It said that summer train service made it possible to reach the Island Villa for a special Sunday dinner. Price $1 includes transportation to and from Grand Isle station.

Mary: Who owned the property before your grandfather bought it?

Abiah: A gentleman who lived up the road said there was a Daniel McDickson who owned this property, and had become quite fond of horses. He had a race track right here on the point before there were any buildings. I don’t know how much of a thing it became but it lasted awhile.

As I said my mom grew up in the village, and she said she loved to sit on the veranda and watch the conveyance go over to pick up people at the train station who were coming over to the Villa. My mom, when she was a little girl, said she was always fascinated with the people and the clothes they wore. They were always dressed up quite fancy. My Dad was born in 1903 here at the Villa. They had a pastry cook Della who live up in the Village. She always made our birthday cakes. The boys had birthdays close together in September.

[We’re standing outside on the driveway a little back from the building.]

Abiah: Right here was the pump house. [There are still some bricks to indicate that a building was there.] Those bricks were part of the footing for the tower that held the water cage.

ivmap.jpg (395400 bytes)They always had a fishing guide, a man who could tell people where to catch the best fish. He was very needed and people really enjoyed him. Fishing was a big thing. Mr. Ball who was president of Pierre Lorillard, would arrive and get out of his car all dressed up so nicely. He’d rush up to his room and come right back down all set to go out on the lake. He always wrote ahead for the guide and wanted him right away. The beach was down below here where the boats were all kept.

Mary: Tell me more about the food and its preparation..

Abiah: The meat was brought in from Lyon Brothers in Milton. They came through with a cart and they’d put the meat in the walk-in cooler. The chef kept a big pot on the back of the huge coal-fired range, and it always had soup stock in it. Whatever was left over, whether it was beef or chicken or whatever, he threw in the pot. It may not sound too great, but he sure knew how to make soup, mother said. He was complete boss of his kitchen and also of the table girls. He ruled with an iron hand. Fish was always on our menu for dinner. You always had a choice of three meats or a fish course, a soup course and a salad. The desserts were out of this world, because Della was a marvelous pastry cook. We had our own hand-cranked ice cream which was on the menu. She made beautiful angel cake.

Mary: Do you remember this food at all?

Abiah: Yes, some of it I do. Another thing I remember is that if you were going swimming in the afternoon, you came down the back stairway. You did not come down the main stairway. It was not considered appropriate in bathing attire. You could come in to the dining room at noon time in your everyday clothes or your fishing clothes for lunch, but at night you dressed for dinner. It was rather formal at night.iv5.jpg (243423 bytes)

The old pictures will show awnings over every window on the second and third floor. I remember those awnings. They haven’t been up for a number of years.

Mary: What about the barn there?

Abiah: That barn I believe was a carriage barn.

I’ve always been able to come up here and stand on the point. It restores my soul.

Mary: Does it bring back memories?

Abiah: Oh yes, I have some great memories. I don’t know if I can associate any bad memories with the Villa at all. As I said, when I was very young, my parents were divorced, so I didn’t stay over night very often. But I used to spend a lot of days here. I loved to go out fishing. My father had a cruiser, and I spent a lot of time on that with him. I love knowing the lake, where the reefs are, how to get around .

iv2.jpg (226394 bytes)Mary: Do you think the guests here had a real appreciation of the natural beauty of this place?

Abiah: Oh yes, I think so. There are such beautiful views. The view south of here, looking out toward Savage Island and Fish Bladder Island and all the way down through the Sand Bar is beautiful.

Mary: How was the word first spread about this place, did you hear any stories about how the first guests came to know of this place?

Abiah: I really don’t know how they actually advertised, but I presume they put little notices in newspapers. The big thing was that the railroad came in at the same time the Villa was built. That’s how the people got here.

 

When my parents were still together, they would move into their farm across the street for the winter. There were a few years they lived here in the Villa during the winter. They only kept the kitchen and the bedroom right above it opened. The rest closed up.

Mary: So it was his farm that provided a lot of the food?

Abiah: The gentleman who was the gardener here planted the vegetables so he had fresh vegetables from the beginning of the season in June right on through to when the season ended in October. People weren’t used to ordering asparagus in February back then. They were used to a more limited selection. They put fresh flowers from the garden on the table every night.

I found the walk-in cooler very interesting. They cut ice when the ice on the lake was about a foot thick or thicker. They would cut it and put a layer in the bottom of the cooler and then put sawdust over it, and that would insulate it, and they would put another layer of ice and another layer of sawdust, until they got it right up to the top. And that would last the summer. They had the big ice house here at the end of the Villa. There was also another one as you came up the driveway, which later on was turned into some of the counselors’ rooms. That was a big ice house that went down into the ground quite away. The electricity thing really fascinated me, because I didn’t think that you would have power in the early 1900s. I guess you didn’t in most places.

Mary: The trees around the property?

Abiah: Most have been here all along. Right up there by the front entry there used to be a mail box, and the mailman would come up and go around the loop. Every year we had a little wren that would make a nest in there. My Dad would have to meet the mailman at the door so he wouldn’t stick the mail in the box, because the wren had turned it into her house. I can remember that because I was always trying to peek in there to see how she was doing.

Mary: Were there other guests that you remember?

Abiah: My mother spoke about the Lymans from Burlington. I know the majority were from down country, Boston, New York and Philadelphia. I know there was a gentleman by the name of Dr. Godfrey. He kept his own personal boat here. He was here every summer for a long time.

When I was a kid my father wouldn’t let me up in the attic. There was just a center walkway, and the ceiling joints were pretty much open. You didn’t want to step on them or you’d land on the floor below. The amazing thing was there was a flag pole up there. It sat on the ceiling joists of the floor below, and it went all the way up through the roof onto the widow’s walk. I presume it probably started to leak around it, and they eliminated it. It is interesting to go up in the attic because here’s this great big round piece of flag pole and it only goes up to the ceiling and that’s as far as it goes. With the flag flying and the awnings over all the windows, it was quite a building to see. I am so pleased they are restoring it to what it was originally — putting in the cedar shingles up on the third floor and doing the trimming in green. The building was always green and white. It looks so nice.

Mary: Your grandfather’s family, they must have come from a certain amount of money?

Abiah: Oh yes, I think they did. Their father was a doctor, and they lived in Burlington. I think there was quite a bit of money there I know my great grandmother’s maiden name was Thompson, but I don’t know where she came from. I don’t think from Burlington. But I am sure there was money there because all three of the boys were relatively well educated. Clark, the youngest one, went to UVM, and then he went on to get his law degree. He donated money to the medical center in his later years. I am sure that when my father’s parents died, he was not left penniless. He was in pretty good shape.

I am noticing the back porch. When I was a kid that was all screened in. Often times when the cook wasn’t occupied, he’d sit out there.

At one time the farm across the road was part of this property. When my folks divorced, my mom ended up with the farm, and my dad kept the Villa. My mom also had a farm up on Route 2. My folks could sit and visit for hours, and laugh and talk about things, probably because they grew up as kids together. They’d have the greatest time. But they were only married from 1926 to 1937, not a long period of time. I was just born when they divorced.

My father died just as I was becoming a young adult, and getting curious about my ancestry. I would have loved to have asked him a million questions. He and I did enjoy each other. We loved to fish, and we loved to hunt. We’d go pickerel shooting down here in the swamp. He’d take me out walleye fishing. When I was at UVM, he’d pick me up at the dorm and we’d go out for dinner at night, and have a great time. He loved machinery. He loved fast cars, and things like that. I really enjoyed the time I spent with him. My brothers had a different outlook on him than I did. My older brother Frank was raised by a nanny because both my parents were so busy and so involved with the Villa. His life was quite a lot different from mine.

iv6.jpg (287413 bytes)This mound in the middle of the driveway, right in front of the main entry, was built up. There always used to be a flower bed there. There were a lot of peonies around the place. They were dark, dark, red, up the edge of the drive, and around in different spots. But I don’t remember what was here in the center. I think the gardener had it so there was some color all summer long, enough of a variety, tulips in the spring.

Mary: Lightning rods on the top of the building?

iv4.jpg (147056 bytes)My father had those lightening rods put up there. My mother said he was scared to death of lightning, but it fascinated him. He always told my brothers and me that if we were ever out on the lake and saw a storm coming up, get to land. He said he didn’t care where the land was, just get to land and stay there until the storm was over. That’s something I always remembered because it is good advice. We’ve lost a number of fishermen and boaters around here because they didn’t come in when there was a lightning storm. I think because you’re up on top of this point, you’re quite an attraction. My mother said that Dad would stand out on the veranda and watch over the lake as the storm moved. He didn’t ever want to be out there. He was a great teacher about the lake, about its different conditions. The weather around here is different in the fall than in the summer. He thought it was important to learn as much about it as you could. The lake can get very angry when it wants to get angry, and you best be aware of it. I’ve always been fascinated by the lake, the reefs and learning to know it and how to get around on it.

Mary: Do you know anyone now who used to know your grandparents?

Abiah: I know of a lady who used to live just across the bay. She now lives in South Hero, and she’s close to 90. She loved my grandmother, and she thought she was a delightful lady. She said she was always a little frightened of my grandfather. He was a big man, and he had a big moustache. She didn’t want to tangle with him. My mother never had any problem with either one of them. She thought they were delightful people. She spent a lot of time here when she was growing up, and she knew both my grandparents quite well. She thought that Mrs. Briggs was a delightful lady and that Mr. Briggs was a little more aloof and didn’t mix with the young people quite as much. Still, she was fond of both of them.

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This interview was taken by Mary Sullivan before Abiah Allen's death on January 18, 2001.

 

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